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Management of tendon injuries in the fingers is to follow the RICE method.
- Immediately cease climbing and any other activity that puts stress on the injured finger. Consult a doctor if there is noticeable "bowstringing" on the flexor tendon or if you are the least unsure about the nature of the injury.
- There are different theories out there for the preferred line of approach. Some argue for the use of NSAIDs and ice for visible swelling only, others argue diclofenac sodium should be applied and carefully rubbed in on the injury until the swelling starts to give.
- When the pain and swelling is gone (depending of the grade of the injury, 1–4 weeks), begin with an active healing process – containing squeezing putty clay or a stress ball. Combine this with light massage and mild stretching to ensure your finger will heal properly and better prepared for future stress. The use of heating pads and cold water baths are also mentioned in several sources in order to increase blood flow. Use this therapy for about twice as long as the previous resting period (2–8 weeks) before gradually returning, with the utmost care, to climbing.
- Gradually return to climbing while using prophylactic taping every time you climb, and spend the first weeks climbing relatively easy routes with big holds, good footholds and keep your sessions short and stay away from overhangs and campus areas/boards.
- Return to full-force climbing if easy climbing yields no pain. Continue taping (it will also serve as a mental note of the previous injury) and avoid tweaky crimps and pockets for several months, since complete tendon healing can take 100 days or more.
Climber's finger is one of the most common climbing injuries within the sport of rock climbing. It is an overuse injury that usually manifests in a swollen middle or ring finger due to a damaged flexor tendon pulley, normally the A2 or A4 pulley. It is caused by a climber trying to support his or her body weight with one or two fingers, and is particularly common after a repeated utilization of small holds. Continued climbing on an injured finger may result in increased downtime in order to recover.
Workers in certain fields are at risk of repetitive strains. Most occupational injuries are musculoskeletal disorders, and many of these are caused by cumulative trauma rather than a single event. Miners and poultry workers, for example, must make repeated motions which can cause tendon, muscular, and skeletal injuries.
In terms of overuse injuries a British study found that:
- 40 percent occurred in the fingers
- 16 percent in the shoulders
- 12 percent in the elbows
- 5 percent were the knees
- 5 percent back
- 4 percent wrists
One injury that tend to be very common among climbers is Carpal tunnel syndrome. It is found in about 25% of climbers.
604 injured rock climbers were prospectively evaluated from January 1998 to December 2001, due to the rapid growth of new complex finger trauma in the mid-1980s. Of the most frequent injuries, three out of four were related to the fingers: pulley injuries accounted for 20%, tendovaginitis for 7%, and joint capsular damage for 6.1%.
Dupuytren’s disease has a high recurrence rate, especially when a person has so called Dupuytren’s diathesis. The term diathesis relates to certain features of Dupuytren's disease and indicates an aggressive course of disease.
The presence of all new Dupuytren’s diathesis factors increases the risk of recurrent Dupuytren’s disease by 71% compared with a baseline risk of 23% in people lacking the factors. In another study the prognostic value of diathesis was evaluated. They concluded that presence of diathesis can predict recurrence and extension. A scoring system was made to evaluate the risk of recurrence and extension evaluating the following values: bilateral hand involvement, little finger surgery, early onset of disease, plantar fibrosis, knuckle pads and radial side involvement.
Minimally invasive therapies may precede higher recurrence rates. Recurrence lacks a consensus definition. Furthermore, different standards and measurements follow from the various definitions.
Hand and wrist injuries are reported to account for fifteen to twenty percent of emergency room injuries, and metacarpal fractures represent a significant number of those injuries. Hand injuries of this sort are most prevalent among fifteen- to thirty-five-year-old males, and the fifth metacarpal is the one most commonly affected.
Males are nearly fifty percent more likely to sustain fracture from a punch mechanism than females. Male intentional punch injuries are correlated predominantly with social deprivation, while female punch intentional injuries show more correlation with psychiatric disorders.
Approximately 3.7 male hand injuries, per 1000, per year, and 1.3 female hand injuries, per 1000, per year, have been reported. Common mechanisms of injury are gender specific. Although the fiscal cost is not available, it can be asserted that the cost is reasonably significant per individual, depending on the cost of emergency care, immobilization, surgery, follow up doctors’ visits, etc. in addition to the fiscal impact from loss of and/or limited work abilities.
About 1.8 million people go to the emergency department each year due to hand injuries.
Boxers and other combat athletes routinely use hand wraps and boxing gloves to help stabilize the hand, greatly reducing pain and risk of injury during impact. Proper punching form is the most important factor to prevent this type of fracture.
The cause of trigger finger is unclear but several causes have been proposed. It has also been called stenosing tenosynovitis (specifically "digital tenosynovitis stenosans"), but this may be a misnomer, as inflammation is not a predominant feature.
It has been speculated that repetitive forceful use of a digit leads to narrowing of the fibrous digital sheath in which it runs, but there is little scientific data to support this theory. The relationship of trigger finger to work activities is debatable and scientific evidence for and against hand use as a cause exist. While the mechanism is unclear, there is some evidence that triggering of the thumb is more likely to occur following surgery for carpal tunnel syndrome. It may also occur in rheumatoid arthritis.
Ice and elevation may help reduce pain and swelling, and allow the injury to begin to recover.
Severe sprains accompanied by significant pain and swelling may need to be immobilized.
A mallet finger is an extensor tendon injury at the farthest away finger joint. This results in the inability to extend the finger tip without pushing it. There is generally pain and bruising at the back side of the farthest away finger joint.
A mallet finger usually results from over bending of the finger tip. Typically this occurs when a ball hits an outstretched finger and jams it. This results in either a tear of the tendon or the tendon pulling off a bit of bone. The diagnosis is generally based on symptoms and supported by X-rays.
Treatment is generally with a splint that holds the finger straight continuously for 8 weeks. This should be begun within a week of the injury. If the finger is bent during these weeks, healing may take longer. If a large piece of bone has been torn off surgery may be recommended. Without proper treatment a permanent deformity of the finger may occur.
Fractures of the fingers occur when the finger or hands hit a solid object. Fractures are most common at the base of the little finger (boxer's fracture).
Nerve injuries occur as a result of trauma, compression or over-stretching. Nerves send impulses to the brain about sensation and also play an important role in finger movement. When nerves are injured, one can lose ability to move fingers, lose sensation and develop a contracture. Any nerve injury of the hand can be disabling and results in loss of hand function. Thus it is vital to seek medical help as soon as possible after any hand injury.
Sprains result from forcing a joint to perform against its normal range of motion. Finger sprains occur when the ligaments which are attached to the bone are overstretched and this results in pain, swelling, and difficulty for moving the finger. Common examples of a sprain are jammed or twisted fingers. These injuries are common among ball players but can also occur in laborers and handy men. When finger sprains are not treated on time, prolonged disability can result.
The Jersey Finger is a finger-related tendon injury that is common in athletics and can result in permanent loss of flexion of the end of the finger if not surgically repaired.
This injury often occurs in American football when a player grabs another player's jersey with the tips of one or more fingers while that player is pulling or running away.
The condition is called "Golfer's Elbow" because in making a golf swing this tendon is stressed, especially if a non-overlapping (baseball style) grip is used; many people, however, who develop the condition have never handled a golf club. It is also sometimes called "Pitcher's Elbow" due to the same tendon being stressed by the throwing of objects such as a baseball, but this usage is much less frequent. Other names are "Climber's Elbow" and "Little League Elbow": all of the flexors of the fingers and the pronators of the forearm insert at the medial epicondyle of the humerus to include: pronator teres, flexor carpi radialis, flexor carpi ulnaris, flexor digitorum superficialis, and palmaris longus; making this the most common elbow injury for rock climbers, whose sport is very grip intensive. The pain is normally caused due to stress on the tendon as a result of the large amount of grip exerted by the digits and torsion of the wrist which is caused by the use and action of the cluster of muscles on the condyle of the ulna.
Epicondylitis is much more common on the lateral side of the elbow (tennis elbow), rather than the medial side. In most cases, its onset is gradual and symptoms often persist for weeks before patients seek care. In golfer's elbow, pain at the medial epicondyle is aggravated by resisted wrist flexion and pronation, which is used to aid diagnosis. On the other hand, tennis elbow is indicated by the presence of lateral epicondylar pain precipitated by resisted wrist extension. Although the condition is poorly understood at a cellular and molecular level, there are hypotheses that point to apoptosis and autophagic cell death as causes of chronic lateral epicondylitis. The cell death may decrease the muscle density and cause a snowball effect in muscle weakness - this susceptibility can compromise a muscle's ability to maintain its integrity. So athletes, like pitchers, must work on preventing this cell death via flexibility training and other preventive measures.
The classically used Leddy and Packer Classification classifies Jersey finger tendon injuries based on the degree of tendon injury, retraction, and presence of a concomitant fracture.
Often, surgical pins are inserted into the injured digit to stabilize the bone and tendon in their proper alignment. Post surgical complications can include infection, pin failure and nail and joint deformity. Surgery is often accompanied by a rehabilitation protocol to strengthen the injured muscle and help the patient regain as much range of motion (ROM) as possible at the affected joint. The finger may never return normal extension ROM.
Stenosing tenosynovitis is most commonly caused by overuse from chronic repetitive activities using the hand or the involved finger. Examples include work activities (e.g., computer use, materials handling) or recreational activities (e.g., knitting, golf, racket sports). Carpenters who use hammers suffer from this as well as those who continuously grip wood or other materials when cutting them due to having to use your hands as a clamp to hold things in place.
Primary stenosing tenosynovitis can be idiopathic, occurring in middle age women more frequently than in men, but can present also in infancy.
Secondary stenosing tenosynovitis can be caused by disease or entities that cause connective tissue disorders including the following:
- Rheumatoid arthritis and psoriatic arthritis—therefore the clinician must assess the hands for rheumatologic deformities.
- Gout
- Diabetes mellitus
- Amyloidosis
- Systemic lupus erythematosus
Others causes may include the following:
- Direct trauma to the site
- During the postpartum period
- Congenital
People with diabetes mellitus are at higher risk for any kind of peripheral neuropathy, including ulnar nerve entrapments.
Cubital tunnel syndrome is more common in people who spend long periods of time with their elbows bent, such as when holding a telephone to the head. Flexing the elbow while the arm is pressed against a hard surface, such as leaning against the edge of a table, is a significant risk factor. The use of vibrating tools at work or other causes of repetitive activities increase the risk, including throwing a baseball.
Damage to or deformity of the elbow joint increases the risk of cubital tunnel syndrome. Additionally, people who have other nerve entrapments elsewhere in the arm and shoulder are at higher risk for ulnar nerve entrapment. There is some evidence that soft tissue compression of the nerve pathway in the shoulder by a bra strap over many years can cause symptoms of ulnar neuropathy, especially in very large-breasted women.
Repetitive strain injury (RSI) and associative trauma orders are umbrella terms used to refer to several discrete conditions that can be associated with repetitive tasks, forceful exertions, vibrations, mechanical compression, or sustained/awkward positions. Examples of conditions that may sometimes be attributed to such causes include edema, tendinosis (or less often tendinitis), carpal tunnel syndrome, cubital tunnel syndrome, De Quervain syndrome, thoracic outlet syndrome, intersection syndrome, golfer's elbow (medial epicondylitis), tennis elbow (lateral epicondylitis), trigger finger (so-called stenosing tenosynovitis), radial tunnel syndrome, ulnar tunnel syndrome, and focal dystonia.
Since the 1970s there has been a worldwide increase in RSIs of the arms, hands, neck, and shoulder attributed to the widespread use of typewriters/computers in the workplace that require long periods of repetitive motions in a fixed posture.
The term jammed finger refers to finger joint pain and swelling from an impact injury. It's the most common injury in sports. This injury tends to be very painful, and immediate treatment will usually help heal the joint faster. Most jammed fingers heal relatively quickly, if no fracture occurs. If there is a fracture, however, the healing process will take longer; anywhere from one or two weeks to several months, and the methods of healing will become more in depth. Toes can become jammed as well, but not as often as fingers.
Treatment is generally with a splint that holds the finger straight continuously for 8 weeks. The split may be worn for a few more weeks after this just at night. This should be begun within a week of the injury.
Surgery generally does not improve outcomes. It may be required if the finger cannot be straitened by pushing on it or the break has pulled off more than 30% of the joint surface. If the problem has been present a long time surgery may also be required. An open fracture may be another reason. Surgery will put the finger in a neutral position and drill a wire through the DIP to the PIP, forcing immobilization.
In one study, those with stage 2 of the disease were found to have a slightly increased risk of mortality, especially from cancer.
Trigger fingers is a common disorder characterized by catching, snapping or locking of the involved finger flexor tendon, associated with dysfunction and pain. It is a sub-set of stenosing tenosynovitis.
A disparity in size between the flexor tendon and the surrounding retinacular pulley system, most commonly at the level of the first annular (A1) pulley, results in difficulty flexing or extending the finger and the "triggering" phenomenon. The label of trigger finger is used because when the finger unlocks, it pops back suddenly, as if releasing a trigger on a gun.
The etiology of the Galeazzi fracture is thought to be a fall that causes an axial load to be placed on a hyperpronated forearm. However, researchers have been unable to reproduce the mechanism of injury in a laboratory setting.
After the injury, the fracture is subject to deforming forces including those of the brachioradialis, pronator quadratus, and thumb extensors, as well as the weight of the hand. The deforming muscular and soft-tissue injuries that are associated with this fracture cannot be controlled with plaster immobilization.
Golfer's elbow, or medial epicondylitis, is tendinosis of the medial epicondyle on the inside of the elbow. It is in some ways similar to tennis elbow, which affects the outside at the lateral epicondyle.
The anterior forearm contains several muscles that are involved with flexing the digits of the hand, and flexing and pronating the wrist. The tendons of these muscles come together in a common tendinous sheath, which originates from the medial epicondyle of the humerus at the elbow joint. In response to minor injury, or sometimes for no obvious reason at all, this point of insertion becomes inflamed.